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Hacksaw Blade Selection Guide for Workshop and Trade Use
Buying a hacksaw for a workshop is mostly a question of blades, not frames: one frame will last for years, while blades are consumed by the metre of steel the workshop cuts. This guide covers how a general-purpose workshop frame is used, how to choose tooth counts for the materials that actually arrive at the bench, and the small habits that stop a blade from being destroyed in its first five minutes.
Frame first, blades second
- One good frame. A tensioning alloy frame that takes 300 mm blades covers steel, conduit, plastic and aluminium. Everything after that is blade choice.
- Blade length and pin spacing. Buy blades that match the frame, and keep to one standard so blades never sit in the drawer unusable.
- Tension adjustment. The frame must be able to tension a new blade until it rings, and release it without tools when you change it.
- Angle positions. The 45 degree position is what allows a flush cut against a wall or inside a channel.
- Storage. Blades last longer in a tube or a wrapper than loose in a drawer, where the teeth knock against each other and lose their set.
Tooth count against material
| Material | Teeth per inch | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Steel bar, angle and box section | 18 to 24 | Clears swarf and keeps cutting without stripping teeth |
| Thin wall tube and conduit | 24 to 32 | Keeps three teeth in the cut so the teeth do not catch and snap |
| Aluminium | 14 to 18 | Coarse teeth clear the soft, sticky swarf |
| Plastic pipe and profiles | 18 to 24 | Cleaner edge with less chipping than a coarse blade |
| Hardened or case-hardened parts | Not suitable | Hand hacksaw blades will not cut hardened steel; use an abrasive cut-off |
Getting a square cut
A square cut needs a square start. Mark all round the section rather than on one face, so you can see the line on both sides as you cut, and start on a flat face with the blade held at a shallow angle for the first few strokes. Then bring the frame up to the line and keep the stroke long and level. On box section and pipe, cut one wall at a time by rotating the work in the vice rather than steering the saw round the curve, because a blade steered sideways loses its set and begins to wander. When the cut breaks through, support the offcut so it does not drop and pinch the blade, which is the most common way a nearly finished cut ends with a snapped blade.
The workshop hacksaw in this guide
Setting up a bench saw
| Item | Workshop practice | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Frame | Hang it or stand it, never leave it lying on the blade | A blade resting on the bench takes the set off its teeth |
| Blades | Keep three counts: 14 to 18, 18 to 24, and 24 to 32 | Covers aluminium, general steel and thin wall tube without compromise |
| Vice | Soft jaws for finished surfaces, support for the offcut | Prevents pinching, which is what snaps blades |
| Lubricant | A drop of cutting oil on steel | Blades run cooler and last noticeably longer |
| Marking | Mark all round the section | Makes a square cut possible without a guide |
Faults and care
- Teeth strip in the middle of the blade. Pressure with a dull blade, or fewer than three teeth in the cut. Change the blade rather than pushing harder.
- Blade breaks at the pin. The frame was not tensioned, or the blade was twisted while cutting a curve.
- Blade jumps out of the kerf. The set has gone flat from cutting through a hardened surface, or the stroke has become short and uneven.
- Blade rusts in the drawer. Damp storage and no oil. Wipe steel blades with an oily rag before they go away.
- Frame will not tension. The nut threads are packed with swarf, or the frame ends have been distorted. Clean the thread first, then check the frame against a straight edge.
- Cut takes forever. Wrong tooth count for the material, or a blade that was dull two jobs ago. Blades are cheap; time on the bench is not.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many blades should a workshop keep in stock?
Enough to cover the materials that arrive: a pack of 24 tooth blades for tube and conduit, a pack of 18 tooth for general steel, and a coarser blade or two for aluminium and plastic. At the price of a blade, keeping three counts in stock is cheaper than a stopped job.
Do these frames take standard blades?
They take the standard 300 mm blade length. Check the pin spacing when buying blades from another supplier, and keep to one standard so spares always fit.
What is the advantage of a double sided blade?
Two tooth counts on one blade, which removes the decision in the middle of a job. The trade-off is a slightly thicker blade, so it cuts a little more slowly in soft material.
Can I cut stainless steel with a hacksaw?
Thin wall stainless can be cut with a fine blade, light pressure and cutting oil, and you should expect it to be slow. Thicker stainless work-hardens under the blade and is a job for an abrasive cut-off saw.
How do I keep a hacksaw cutting straight?
Square the blade in the frame, tension it until it rings, mark all round the section, and keep the stroke long and level. Wandering is almost always a slack blade or uneven pressure, not a blunt one.
Buying the right one
Buy one frame and standardise on 300 mm blades, then stock the three tooth counts the workshop actually uses. The workshop hacksaw frame in this guide is the general-purpose option: fit it with 24 tooth blades for tube and 18 tooth for bar and angle, and keep a coarse blade for aluminium.
