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Circular Saws, Jigsaws and Tile Cutters: Matching the Saw to the Cut
Portable saws are chosen by the shape of the cut, not by the size of the motor. A circular saw cuts straight lines in sheet and timber, a jigsaw cuts curves and internal openings, and a tile or stone cutter does a job neither of the others can do without damage. This guide covers the saws and cutters we stock, and how to pick the one that suits the material and the shape of the cut.
Match the saw to the cut
- Straight lines in sheet and timber. Circular saw. Fast, and easy to guide against a straight edge.
- Curves, cutouts and plunge cuts. Jigsaw. The narrow blade turns, which a circular blade cannot.
- Tile, stone and marble. A wet or dry tile cutter with the right blade. An abrasive disc on a grinder will chip the glaze.
- Grooves and slots. A grooving machine or a router-type cutter, because a saw blade cannot cut a channel to a controlled depth.
Saws and cutters compared
| Tool | Best for | Limit |
|---|---|---|
| Circular saw | Straight cuts in sheet, board and timber | Cannot cut curves or internal openings |
| Jigsaw | Curves, cutouts and plunge cuts | Slower, and the blade wanders in thick material |
| Grooving machine | Channels and slots at a set depth | Only for the width of cutter fitted |
| Tile cutter | Tile, marble and stone | Needs the correct blade for the material |
Circular saws
Circular saws with a 185 mm blade, in a wide range of options are the standard for straight cutting: the blade size sets the maximum depth of cut, and the base plate sets how the saw runs against a straight edge. A second range of circular saws with different blade and body options covers heavier and lighter work. Check two numbers before buying: the maximum depth at 90 degrees, which decides whether the saw will cut the timber you use, and the bore size of the blade, because a blade with the wrong bore will not fit safely.
Jigsaws for curves and cutouts
Electric jigsaws in a range of options cut curves, internal openings and plunge cuts, which makes them the tool for sinks, sockets and shaped panels. A second range of jigsaws with fewer, larger options suits buyers who want one machine and a known set of blades. The blade decides the result: a coarse blade cuts fast and splinters the top face, while a fine down-cut blade leaves a clean edge on veneer and laminate.
Grooving and tile cutting
Where the cut is a channel rather than a separation, a wood grooving and slotting machine on 220 V mains cuts at a controlled depth, which is what you need for a concealed fixing, a cable run or a decorative groove. For tile, marble and stone, a portable marble and tile cutter does the job that a general-purpose saw cannot: the blade and the cutting action are matched to brittle material, so the glaze does not chip and the edge stays clean. Match the blade to the material, because a blade for ceramic will not cut natural stone efficiently and vice versa.
Blades, depth and the settings that matter
- Depth of cut. Set the blade to just clear the material. A blade that protrudes too far is harder to control and exposes more teeth than necessary.
- Tooth count. Few teeth cut fast and rough, many teeth cut slowly and clean. Sheet goods and laminate need the fine end of the range.
- Blade direction. Circular saw teeth point up at the front of the blade, so the saw cuts upward. A blade fitted backwards will burn and kick.
- Support. Support the sheet on both sides of the cut, and use a straight edge clamped in place rather than following a pencil line freehand.
Cutting safely with portable saws
Portable saws remove fingers faster than almost any other tool, and the causes are predictable. Keep both hands on the handles and let the guard do its job, rather than holding the guard back to see the line. Do not reach under the workpiece to catch a falling offcut, because that is exactly where the blade is. Support the material so it cannot drop and pinch the blade, and never cut a workpiece that is resting on your knee or held by someone else. Keep the cable behind the saw so you cannot cut through it, wear eye and hearing protection, and unplug the tool before changing a blade.
Guide rails, straight edges and repeat cuts
Accuracy with a portable saw comes from what the saw runs against, not from the saw itself. A clamped straight edge or a guide rail turns a circular saw into a repeatable tool, and it is the cheapest accuracy upgrade available. For jigsaws, a guide only helps on the straight sections, so cut the straight runs first and the curves freehand. Where the same cut is repeated many times, make a jig or a template rather than measuring each part, and mark a reference face on every piece so the rail always sits on the same side. Off-square cuts almost always come from a guide that moved, not from a blade that drifted.
Frequently asked questions
Circular saw or jigsaw – which should I buy first?
A circular saw if most of your work is straight cuts in sheet and timber. Add a jigsaw when you need curves, cutouts or plunge cuts.
Can a circular saw cut metal?
Only with a blade intended for the material, such as a metal-cutting blade or an abrasive wheel. A wood blade on metal will blunt and grab.
Why does my jigsaw blade wander?
Too much feed pressure, a blunt blade, or a blade that is too fine for the material. Let the saw cut at its own rate and use a blade suited to the thickness.
How do I cut a straight line without a table saw?
Clamp a straight edge or a guide rail to the workpiece and run the saw base against it. Freehand cutting is where most off-square cuts come from.
Can I cut tile with an angle grinder?
Yes, with a diamond blade intended for tile, but a dedicated tile cutter gives a cleaner edge and less chipping on glazed and brittle material.
Where to start
Browse the full Power Tools range, or the wider Power Tools category if you also need grinders, drills or finishing tools. Tell us the material, the shape of the cut and the thickness, and we will point you at the saw and blade that fit.
