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Jigsaw Blades: Tooth Pitch and Matching the Blade to the Material
A jigsaw is only as good as the blade in it, and the blade is specified by a code that most buyers never read. The shank type, the tooth pitch and the material of the blade decide whether it cuts fast and rough or slow and clean, and whether it survives the material at all. This guide explains the codes and the choices so you can pick a blade deliberately instead of reaching for whatever is in the drawer.
What the blade code tells you
- Shank. T-shank is the modern standard for quick-change machines. U-shank is the older pattern and needs a different clamp.
- Tooth pitch. Measured in teeth per inch. Few teeth cut fast in thick material, many teeth cut clean in thin material.
- Blade material. High-carbon steel for wood and plastic, bi-metal or alloy steel for metal, and carbide grit for tile and abrasive material.
- Length and width. A longer blade reaches thick material; a wider blade cuts straighter. A narrow blade turns tighter curves.
Matching the blade to the material
| Material | Blade | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Softwood and board | Coarse HCS, 6 to 10 TPI | Clears the cut quickly without burning |
| Plywood, laminate and veneer | Fine HCS, 12 to 20 TPI, down-cut | Reduces splintering on the show face |
| Plastic and acrylic | Fine HCS, low speed | Coarse teeth crack brittle sheet |
| Steel sheet and profile | Bi-metal or alloy steel, 14 to 24 TPI | Hardened teeth survive the metal |
| Tile and abrasive sheet | Carbide grit | Teeth would blunt instantly |
Wood and plastic blades
A T244D jigsaw blade in high-carbon steel, 75 mm, for wood and plastic is the general-purpose blade for sheet goods and board, and the 75 mm length keeps the blade stiff enough to cut square through a panel. A woodworking jigsaw blade set in high-carbon steel gives you the pitch range rather than one blade, which is what you need if you cut both framing timber and veneered board: the coarse blade clears fast and the fine blade protects the show face. Store blades so the teeth cannot rub against each other, because a damaged set is what makes a jigsaw wander.
Blades for metal
An extra-long T318A jigsaw blade for metal in alloy steel reaches through thicker sections and profile that a standard blade cannot, and the hardened alloy teeth are what let it cut steel without losing their edge after a few centimetres. Metal cutting needs a lower stroke rate and less pressure than wood, because a jigsaw blade in steel heats quickly and a hot blade dulls in seconds.
Stroke rate, pendulum action and feeding
A jigsaw has three variables, and getting them wrong is what produces a burnt edge or a wandering cut.
- Stroke rate. Fast for softwood and board, slow for metal, plastic and anything hard. Speed generates heat, and heat destroys the blade and melts the material.
- Pendulum action. The orbital setting lifts the blade on the up stroke so it clears the chips. Use it on wood for speed, and switch it off for metal, plastic and any cut where the edge quality matters.
- Feed. Let the blade cut at its own rate. Pushing hard bends the blade, and a bent blade cuts a bevel rather than a square edge.
Support the workpiece on both sides of the cut, and support it close to the cut line so the sheet cannot flex and pinch the blade. Where the cut is visible, score or tape the line, or use a down-cut blade, because the top face of a jigsaw cut is where splintering happens.
Why the cut wanders, and how to cut a straight line
A jigsaw blade is thin and unsupported above the workpiece, so it will follow the path of least resistance if you let it. Three habits keep a cut straight. Use the widest blade the curve allows, because width is stiffness. Use a guide or a straight edge clamped to the work rather than following a pencil line by eye. And keep the machine flat: tilting the body even slightly produces a bevel that is invisible until the part is assembled. For a plunge cut, start on a waste area, keep the front of the base plate flat on the work, and bring the blade up to speed before it touches the material.
Blade life and the mistakes that waste it
A jigsaw blade has a short life by design, and most of it is lost to three mistakes. Cutting the wrong material with the wrong blade, which destroys the teeth in a single pass. Running too fast, which overheats the blade and softens the tooth tips. And forcing the feed, which bends the blade and snaps it at the shank. Blades are cheap and the material being cut is not, so change the blade as soon as it stops cutting cleanly rather than pressing harder. Keep a small stock of the pitches you use most, because a job stopped halfway for want of a blade costs more than the blade.
Frequently asked questions
What does T-shank mean?
It is the shape of the blade shank, which locates in the quick-change clamp of most modern jigsaws. U-shank blades are the older pattern and need a different holder.
What blade cuts metal with a jigsaw?
A bi-metal or alloy steel blade with 14 to 24 teeth per inch, run at a slow stroke rate with no pendulum action.
Why does my jigsaw cut at an angle?
The blade is bent, the feed is too fast, or the machine is tilted. Use a stiffer blade, reduce the feed, and keep the base plate flat on the work.
Can a jigsaw cut tile?
Only with a carbide grit blade. A toothed blade blunts and the tile cracks. For tile, a dedicated cutter gives a cleaner edge.
How do I stop the top face splintering?
Use a fine down-cut blade, apply masking tape over the line, and keep the good face down or support it with a sacrificial board.
Where to start
Browse the full Jigsaw Blades range, or the wider Cutting & Measuring Tools category if you also need drill bits, saw blades or squares. Tell us the material, the thickness and the finish you need, and we will point you at the blade and settings that fit.
