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Hand Saw Blade Guide: 300 mm, 500 mm, Single or Double Sided
A hand saw blade is a consumable, and the reason a saw suddenly stops cutting straight is nearly always the blade rather than the frame. Length, thickness and tooth pattern decide what the blade will cut, how straight it stays and how long it lasts, and the difference between a 0.6 mm and a 1.1 mm blade is the difference between a fast cut and a cut that wanders. This guide covers the 300 mm and 500 mm blades in this range, single and double sided patterns, and how to keep a blade cutting to the line.
What decides a hand saw blade
- Length. 300 mm blades suit frames and general bench work; 500 mm blades give a longer stroke for timber and larger sections.
- Thickness. Thin blades cut fast and follow a curve easily; thicker blades resist wandering and are the better choice for straight cuts in harder material.
- Single or double sided. A double sided blade carries a different tooth pattern on each edge, so one blade covers rough and fine work.
- Tooth pattern. Coarse teeth clear waste quickly in soft timber; fine teeth leave a cleaner edge in plastic, laminate and thin wall material.
- Set of the teeth. The teeth are set alternately to make a kerf wider than the blade. Once that set is worn flat, the blade binds no matter how hard you push.
Choosing a blade for the material
| Material | Blade | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Softwood, general bench cuts | 500 mm, thicker blade, coarse teeth | Long stroke, fast waste clearance, stays on the line |
| Hardwood and dense timber | 300 mm to 500 mm, thicker blade, fine to medium teeth | Resists wandering in hard grain |
| Plastic pipe and profiles | 300 mm, fine teeth, thin blade | Cleaner edge, less chipping, easier to start |
| Sheet and laminate | 300 mm, fine teeth, single sided | Controlled depth with the back of the blade clear of the work |
| Mixed workshop use | Double sided blade | One blade covers rough and finish cuts |
Single sided or double sided
A double sided blade is the practical choice for a general toolbox: one edge takes the rough cuts and the other finishes, and turning the blade over is faster than changing it. The trade-off is that the blade is usually slightly thicker to carry two tooth patterns, so it cuts a little slower in soft material. A single sided blade is thinner and faster, and it is the better choice when one material dominates the work, because you can match the tooth pattern exactly and replace the blade when it dulls rather than when both edges are tired.
The hand saw blades in this guide
Every blade in this range
Six options in 300 mm and 500 mm lengths, supplied in packs of ten. Prices are per pack.
| Blade | Length | Type | Pack | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single sided, 1.1 mm | 300 mm | Fine tooth, thin kerf | 10 | $8.99 |
| Single sided, 1.1 mm | 500 mm | Fine tooth, long stroke | 10 | $12.51 |
| Double sided, 1.1 mm | 300 mm | Coarse and fine edges | 10 | $9.04 |
| Double sided, 1.1 mm | 500 mm | Coarse and fine edges | 10 | $16.58 |
| Heavy pattern | 300 mm | Deeper teeth for fast cutting | 1 | $13.32 |
| Heavy pattern | 500 mm | Deeper teeth for fast cutting | 1 | $16.85 |
Cutting straight, and knowing when to change the blade
- Start with a light back stroke. Draw the blade back two or three times to establish a groove before adding pressure. Starting with a push is what makes a saw climb out of the line.
- Let the teeth clear the waste. Long, even strokes with light pressure cut faster than short, hard ones, because the gullets between the teeth need room to carry dust out of the kerf.
- Do not force a dull blade. A dull blade needs more pressure, wanders further and burns the edge of the cut. If you are pushing, change the blade.
- Keep the blade in the frame under tension. A slack blade buckles and cuts a curved kerf. Tension it until it rings slightly when plucked.
- Watch the set of the teeth. When the cut starts to bind in the kerf, the set has gone flat. Replacing the blade is cheaper than forcing the cut.
- Store blades flat. A bent blade never cuts straight again, and blades stored loose in a drawer bend at the ends.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thickness blade should I use?
Thicker for straight cuts in hard material, thinner for fast cuts and curves in soft material. The 1.1 mm blades in this range are the general-purpose thickness; thinner blades cut faster but demand a steadier hand.
Is a double sided blade worth it?
Yes for a mixed toolbox: one blade covers rough cutting and finishing, and the spare edge means less time changing blades. For a single material, a matched single sided blade cuts better.
How long should a blade last?
Depends on the material: a blade used on softwood lasts far longer than one used on laminate or plastic pipe. Change it when the cut starts to wander, when the teeth feel smooth to the thumb, or when you have to push.
Can I sharpen a hand saw blade?
Only with the right file and a lot of patience, and the set of the teeth cannot be restored at home. For a consumable blade at this price, replacement is the sensible choice.
Why does my saw bind in the cut?
Either the set has gone flat, the blade is bent, or the work is closing on the kerf. Support the offcut so the cut cannot pinch, and check the blade for a bend before blaming your technique.
Buying the right one
Buy the length your frame takes, then the pattern for the material you cut most: single sided fine for plastic and sheet, double sided for a general toolbox, and the deeper-tooth pattern when speed matters more than finish. The hand saw blades in this guide cover both lengths in packs of ten, which is the sensible way to buy a consumable.
