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Saw Blade Size Guide: 130 mm to 500 mm, and Which Frame Takes Them
Saw blades are sold in lengths that look like small variations of each other, and the difference is real: a 130 mm blade and a 500 mm blade do entirely different work, and a blade fitted to the wrong frame either will not tension or will not fit the job. This guide covers the 130 mm to 500 mm options in this range, what thickness adds or takes away, and how to match a blade to the frame and the cut you actually have to make.
Length, thickness and sides
- 130 mm and 150 mm. Short blades for detail work: plastic conduit, small profiles, dowels and tight cuts where a full stroke is impossible.
- 300 mm. The bench standard: long enough for a full stroke on trim and sheet, short enough to control.
- 500 mm. For timber and larger sections, where the extra stroke carries more waste out of the kerf per pass.
- 0.6 mm against 1.1 mm. Thin blades cut faster and follow a curve; thicker blades stay straight in harder material and resist buckling in a long stroke.
- Single sided. One tooth pattern per blade, so the blade is thinner and cheaper to replace when it dulls.
Matching the blade to the frame and the cut
| Frame or tool | Blade | Cut it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Junior hacksaw | 150 mm | Conduit, small tube, cable tray and tight access |
| Compact saw frame | 130 mm | Detail work, dowels, plastics |
| Standard hand saw frame | 300 mm | General bench cutting, sheet and trim |
| Long frame or bow saw | 500 mm | Timber and larger section cutting |
| Thin material needing clean edges | 300 mm, 0.6 mm | Laminates, plastics and sheet goods |
Fitting and tensioning a blade properly
Half of all bad cuts come from a blade that was never fitted properly. The blade goes in with the teeth facing forward, away from the handle, and the tension is set so that the blade rings slightly when you pluck it: slack enough to fit without forcing, tight enough that it does not buckle on the push stroke. On a frame with two positions, use the long position for 300 mm and 500 mm blades so the frame does not foul the work, and the short position for detail work where you need the nose of the frame clear. When you change from a double sided blade to a single sided one, check the kerf: a thinner blade will follow the old kerf and wander if you start the new cut in the same groove.
The saw blades in this guide
Every blade in this range
Seven options covering 130 mm to 500 mm. Prices are per pack or per blade as listed.
| Blade | Length | Type | Where it suits | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fine tooth | 130 mm | Single sided | Detail cuts in plastic and timber | $13.70 |
| Fine tooth | 150 mm | Single sided | Junior hacksaw work | $13.70 |
| Thin pattern | 300 mm | 0.6 mm, fine tooth | Clean edges in sheet and laminate | $11.13 |
| Standard pattern | 300 mm | Single sided | General bench cutting | $11.13 |
| Standard pattern, single sided | 300 mm | Economy pack | Volume use in a workshop | $8.99 |
| Standard pattern | 500 mm | Single sided | Timber and larger sections | $15.84 |
| Standard pattern, single sided | 500 mm | Long stroke | Framing and heavy trim | $22.69 |
Technique, wear and replacement
- Start the cut at an angle, then flatten. Two or three light back strokes establish the groove; then bring the blade up to cutting angle rather than starting flat and pushing.
- Keep the stroke long. Use the whole blade: short strokes wear the middle teeth and leave the ends sharp, which is why a worn blade cuts well at the start and badly at the end.
- Do not cut through nails or fixings. A single nail takes the set off a blade, and after that the cut binds.
- Support the offcut. The commonest bind is the work closing on the kerf. Support both sides and the blade keeps running.
- Change at the first sign of wandering. Blades are consumables; a blunt blade costs more time than it saves.
- Store flat and dry. Moisture rusts a blade in a week, and rust is as damaging to a cutting edge as wear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a 300 mm blade in a frame designed for 150 mm?
No, and forcing one damages the frame and the blade. Length is set by the frame: 130 mm and 150 mm for junior and compact frames, 300 mm for standard frames, and 500 mm for long or bow frames.
Is a thinner blade better?
Thinner blades remove less material, cut faster and follow curves more easily, which is ideal for sheet and plastic. For straight cuts in hardwood, a thicker blade wanders less and lasts longer.
Why do my cuts wander to one side?
Usually uneven pressure with the hand on one side of the frame, or a blade whose teeth have lost their set. Check the fit of the blade in the frame first, then the blade.
How many blades should a workshop keep?
Two lengths cover most work: 150 mm for detail and 300 mm for the bench. Add 500 mm only if the frame you use takes it, because a long blade in the wrong frame is unusable.
Do the tooth counts differ between these blades?
Yes, and the difference matters more than the length for the quality of the cut. Match the tooth pattern to the material: fine for plastic and sheet, coarser for timber.
Buying the right one
Start from the frame, then choose the length, then match the tooth pattern to the material. The blades in this guide cover 130 mm to 500 mm, including a 0.6 mm thin pattern for clean edges, so a workshop can keep one length for detail work and one for the bench.
